'Delia's tarragon chicken' always reminds me of my family. It was a family favourite when I growing up and my Mum and Sister still mention it when we talk about what we are going to have for dinner in the group chat. Its a timeless recipe that seems as equally at home as a mid-week supper or at a fancy dinner party (my sister cooked it at one of her first proper 'weekends away' with her friends. Before everyone got blotto and ended up, fully clothed, in the swimming pool....)
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The recipe features in Delia's Summer Collection and is her take on the French classic poulet au vinaigre. Released the summer I was 12, the Summer Collection is still up there in my top ten cookery books as it introduced me to exotic recipes such as halloumi with capers and lime; and Piedmont peppers (via Elizabeth David); and, in the vegetarian chapter, pasta puttanesca (which Delia describes as 'tart's pasta and advises 'if your'e a strict vegetarian replace the anchovies with another spoonful of capers'). Suddenly the world turned from a murky beige to glorious technicolor.
When I was younger I remember being very vocal that, when I grew up and had the wherewithal make tarragon chicken for myself, I certainly wouldn't restrict myself to three measly shallots per serving. Then I grew up and realised you had to go and find the shallots, and buy them, and - and this is the real kicker - peel them all individually. And, while I did add as many to the pan, through watering eyes, as I could could be bothered to prepare, with the benefit of hindsight I fully endorse my mother for sticking to the recipe. Sorry Mum for doubting your wisdom.
Another thing that I didn't appreciate as a youngster was the price of sherry. On this occasion I used Marsala, as a substitute for (near enough a pint of) Amontillado, as that's what I had in the cupboard. But if you are economising, or don't have a bottle of sherry knocking around, or want to whip this up for a quick mid-week dinner (and you should, because it;'s wonderful) then you can use white wine or, I think even better, a can of dry cider. Switch up to cider vinegar if you want to carry on the apple theme.
Delia's Tarragon Chicken
1 chicken, jointed into 8 pieces, or 8 bone-in thighs
150 ml sherry vinegar
2 tbsp fresh tarragon leaves, plus extra to garnish
2 tbsp olive oil
12 shallots, peeled and left whole
4 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
400 ml Amontillado sherry, Marsala, dry cider or white wine
2 tbsp crème fraîche
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Heat the oil in a large frying pan and season the chicken.
When the oil begins to shimmer, fry the chicken -in two batches, if needed - until brown. Place the browned chicken on a plate.
Add the shallots to the pan, brown these a little, and finally add the garlic cloves to colour slightly. Turn the heat down, return the chicken pieces to the pan, scatter the tarragon leaves all over, then pour in the vinegar and sherry. Bring to a simmer simmer, then turn the heat to a very low setting, so that the whole thing barely bubbles, for 45 minutes.
Halfway through, turn the chicken pieces over in the sauce. When they're ready, remove them to a warm serving dish (right side up) along with the shallots and garlic.
The sauce will by now have reduced and concentrated. Whisk the crème fraîche into it, taste it and season as required, then pour the sauce all over the chicken and scatter with the sprigs of tarragon.
Saint Delia recommends serving with new potatoes and peas. So I did. The former being straight out the ground at the allotment. The latter were straight out the freezer. Glass of rose with an ice cube optional but very delicious. Cheers to my lovely family, this one's for you.
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