Estado Puro, Madrid

Ever since my first visit to Madrid, over a decade ago, I've been enchanted by a fabulous city filled with art, culture and, most importantly, the finest jamon.  I was very excited about this most recent trip as not only was it the Ewing's first visit, but we were meeting up with my good friend Tom, resident here for the last couple of years, and also my sister who is on a visit from Down Under.

  

When the Ewing and I arrived the others were still recovering from a weeks partying in Ibiza so we had a whole afternoon and evening to entertain ourselves.  Of course I already had a carefully researched lists of 'must dos' and, as well as all the usual suspects, I was keen to try some of modern style tapas created by former student of Ferran Adrià, and Michelin Star winner in his own right, Paco Roncero at Estado Puro, his bar at the NH Hotel on the Paseo del Prado.

The room itself is comprised of a back lit bar area to the left, and then a light seating area with a tiled 'tunnel' effect and a bright mural on the far wall.  The atmosphere is cool but casual, with long communal tables and high stalls. We found a perch that looked out on to the bar's busy pavement terrace, and to the Prado beyond, and ordered the first of many vino tintos on our trip.

While drinking our wine and munching on some very moreish candied peanuts we sought out a tapas menu.  Although the menus are printed in both English and Spanish the waiters seemed a bit reticent to offer it to us, and on attempting to order a few tapas they were at pains to explain that this wasn't an 'ordinary' chorizo sandwich and the tortilla would be served in a glass and not a wedge.  While the reason for our trip was to sample some of this re imagined traditional food it seems that perhaps the unwary visitor maybe a little surprised with these modern interpretations.

The 'Matrimonio' of two different types of anchovy, the dark salted variety and the vinegar cured boquerone, was the most traditional and simple of our choices.  Gorgeously slippery, oily, slightly bitter peppers and the crunch of the bread offset the salt and vinegar of the fish nicely, but at nearly five euros you may hope for more than a couple of bites each.

The 'Sausage sandwich'  came as a slice of lardo between two pieces of warm olive oil bread.  Although this looked light and delicate there was a good smoky, porky flavour from the fat and the lovely contrast between soft and crisp.  The perfect pub snack.

The '21st Century Spanish Omelette'.  Although not ordinarily a big egg fan I have a soft spot for the ubiquitous tortilla, available in almost every Spanish bar.  This version was presented as a light, warm almost custardy layer with a foam on top and a rich base of onion and potato.

I worried that this might be a step to far for me, but the creamy top married perfectly with the salty, sweet onions and I found my self fighting with the Ewing for the last few spoonfuls at the bottom of the glass.

The jamon and mussel croquettes.  The ham version was studded with plenty of piggy nuggets and was comfortingly dense and crunchy. There was a good fresh fish flavour to the mussel version as well as a decent spike of chilli which livened up the bland bechamel base nicely.  Possibly the best seafood based croquette I have sampled.

The Pig's Trotter with Cuttlefish Noodles.  The trotter was wonderfully gooey and gelatinous with a gloriously sticky reduction that took some serious will power not to lick straight off the slate.  The soft cuttlefish 'noodles' were served on crispy rounds of toast and managed to avoid the shredded rubber band texture while still having a nice amount a chew.  And, at only five Euros, this dish was also a real bargain.

The lovely, and convenient, location would make it a perfect stop for a light lunch after a morning visiting Madrid's great galleries.  And, at nine o'clock, when we left the place was quickly filling up with beautiful people sharing some great looking jugs of cocktails and a few bar snacks before a night on the tiles.

So, in a city boasting hundreds of great tapas bars, was it worth a visit?  Well, yes and no.  The food, while certainly interesting and very tasty, is served in pretty small portions with a not so small price tag attached.  The bill, including two very reasonable glasses of Rioja, came to nearly 30 Euros, maybe a bargain in London but pretty pricy here, even by the Prado.  The place does, however, have a classy charm and a lively vibe, and is certainly offering some great cooking and something a little bit different from the standard Spanish fare.

Orwells, Shiplake, Oxfordshire

Bank holiday weekend.  What could be nicer than a carefree jaunt through the Oxfordshire countryside with the promise of a pint at the end of it?  After sitting stock still in a traffic jam somewhere outside Henley our well deserved drink seemed very far away.  A quick call to the pub to advise them of our hold up, and a circuitous 'shortcut' through Reading, and we pulled in to the car park hungry and grumpy and nearly an hour late.

Despite our delay I was much looking forward to our visit. Rather famously current chef and co owner Ryan Simpson had previously headed up the kitchen at the Goose in Britwell Salome.  Just weeks after regaining their  Michelin star a row with the owner over 'poncey food' saw Simpson quitting and eventually setting up Orwells (named for the author George, who grew up in the village) with his sous chef, Liam Trotman. Orwells promises to deliver 'rural, local food' in the pub and fine dining in 'The Room' which is open in the evenings.  All very promising.

We were warmly welcomed on our slightly flustered entry, and shown to our table in the almost empty pub.  Even on a holiday Saturday only two other tables were occupied, and there was no one drinking at the bar.  A strange sight as Orwell's has recently been awarded 2AA rosettes and has been named as  Restaurant Of The Year for the South East by The Good Food Guide.  While gongs count for very little unless people want to eat and drink here looking around at the homely, traditional surroundings and decently priced food I was surprised it wasn't busier.

Of course the proof of the pudding is in the eating and the menu contained a good looking selection of 'posh' pub grub, including a lovely looking spinach soup with leaves fresh from the garden, a special of half a lobster and chips and their famed muntjac and hazelnut burger.

 

Looking forward to a pint to slake my thirst I was disappointed all hand pumped ale was off.  We settled for a couple of bottles of the ever reliable Oxford Gold, and a couple of 'bar snacks', fearing starters might dent our appetites for the main event.

These were no lightweight nibbles.  Two big kilner jars filled with crispy pork scratchings and marinaded olives soon arrived, followed by a plate of warm, complimentary bread with home churned butter and smoked sea salt.  The Ewing set to work spearing olives like a underwater hunter while I tucked into the pot of porcine goodies .  The scratchings, odd black bristle and all, were truly brilliant.  Nearly in the league of the Sportsman, and far more of them to crunch through.

 

The muntjac and hazelnut cheese burger.  This was also available sans cheese, but I was determined to cram in as many calories as possible after the trauma of getting there.  It was a good call; although it wasn't the peerless, luminous American variety (far too low brow for a burger of this stature) it was nicely melted and added an extra level of tangy nuttiness.

The burger was great.  It looked the part, and cooked slightly pink this notoriously lean meat was oozing juice.  Luckily the glazed brioche bun more than contained its cargo.  If I had a small criticism then the bun was slightly too well done on top, but there was no disintegration as I munched my way through it.  Bonus points for the construction; shredded lettuce on the bottom and tomatoes and plenty of, the all important, pickles on top.

Full marks too for the triple cooked chips.  By far the best fries I have had for a long while.  The mustard mayo accompanying them was nice, but with all the cheese and grease I could have done with some good old Tommy K to cut through the richness.

 

The Ewing's monkfish with spring vegetables, clams, cockles, samphire Jersey potatoes and pea broth.  Spring on a plate.  I can't vouch for this one as I had both hands full and juices dribbling down my chin.   It seemed to go down pretty well though, the Ewing complementing the lightness of touch and the fresh and delicate flavours.

The baked Alaska was as pretty as a picture with the carapace of tarragon meringue concealing a tangy raspberry yogurt ice cream.  I really enjoyed the aniseedy flavour of the accompanying tarragon puree, and the great ice cream, but wasn't as enamoured with the meringue. To be fair I think this is a problem with the dish rather than the cooking.  Meringue that is neither crunchy or chewy seems slightly redundant other than as an insulator for the frozen centre.

Despite some pressure to pick the coconut creme brulee the Ewing plumped for the chocolate tart.  This came with a great Frangelico and coffee ice cream, candied walnuts and cornflake crisp.  The tart filling was wickedly rich and smooth, but I found the pastry a touch tough.  No complaints from the Ewing though, and, even after all those olives, there was little evidence left on the plate.

Overall this was a lovely, laid back meal in bright and welcoming surroundings.  Although a couple more tables filled up the pub remained very quiet through our visit, a huge surprise considering the great food and charming setting.  I'm not sure if it's busier in the evenings, when the Room is also open, or for their Sunday roast, but they certainly deserve to be.

Despite almost having to roll out the pub, groaning after such a feast, and getting horribly lost again on the way home, I'll be back for the scratchings and the fries.  This time with the sat nav.

Saffron Risotto with Bacon and Peas

I don't often make risotto and I'm not really sure why; it's easy, cheap, doesn't need too many ingredients, and is a great dump bin for all those half-forgotten remnants at the back of the fridge. I even find all that stirring really quite relaxing.  Best of all the leftovers make a great filling for peppers or courgettes, lovely little cheese stuffed risotto cakes, and, spooned straight from the fridge the next day, a pretty great hangover cure.

This combination came about as I had the last of the wonderful smoked bacon from the Lower Hardres Farm Shop, together with the first of the fresh peas.  I added a pinch of the Ewing's Spanish saffron too, for it's delicate flavour and bright, springlike hue. 

Armed with a bunch of spring onions, found wilting at the back of the salad drawer, stock from a cube and a glass or two of vino blanco, to help sustain me while stirring I headed for the stove. And voila! Dinner in half and hour, and with plenty left over for the morning after...

Saffron Risotto with Bacon and Peas

Serves 4

Small Bunch of Spring Onions, chopped

3/4 Rashers Smoked Bacon, diced

Olive Oil

400g Risotto Rice

1-1.5l Chicken or Vegetable Stock

Pinch of saffron (optional)

Couple of Large Handfuls of Shelled Fresh (or Frozen) Peas

Salt and Pepper

Grated Parmesan to Serve

-Put stock (and saffron if using) in a saucepan and simmer gently on back of hob.

-Heat a good glug of olive oil in a casserole, add bacon and fry gently until starting to brown.

-add spring onions and rice and continue to cook for another couple of minutes.

-Add a ladle of stock to the rice mixture and stir until the stock has evaporated

-Repeat with further ladles of stock until the rice is soft and creamy, with a little bite in the middle (about 20 minutes)

-Add peas and heat through (don't overcook, or they will turn unappetisingly grey instead of a vibrant green)

-Season and serve with plenty of Parmesan and olive oil

Baked Cod with Wild Garlic and Hazlenut Pesto

After spending my previous 30 years on this earth oblivious to the proliferation of wild garlic in our woodlands this spring I have been deluged by the delightful stuff.

My trusty 'Hedgerow Handbook' assured me that ransoms were growing wild all over the place so I decided to go and do bit of foraging for myself.  The first lot I spotted, quite by accident, on a slope leading to the South Bay in Scarborough.  Apparently you can quite often smell them before you see them, but I had to rub a leaf or two to confirm that these were actually the real deal.  As we were there on holiday, and had no way to store them, I sadly had to leave them growing as they were.

Luckily we found our second patch a few days later while on a walk with my Uncle just outside Leeds.  This time we merrily picked away and managed to fill a carrier bag in no time.  As we weren't going home for a few days they were stored in my Aunt's fridge, but were quickly relegated to the shed when the pungent smell became a bit too overwhelming!

After braving the long trip back down the M1, the ransoms slowly stinking out the boot in the spring sunshine, I was very happy to get my bounty home and get cooking.  As the leaves were beginning to show signs of 'fatigue' ( a bit like I was feeling after being stuck at Newport Pagnell Services for a large part of the afternoon) I decided to make some wild garlic butter and some fresh pesto, both of which would preserve the fresh  'zip' of the garlic and could be easily stored for future use.

The pesto was a bit of an experiment.  In the end I just chucked in most of the things found in a classic basil pesto, (minus the garlic) and with hazelnuts, left over from baking some banana bread, instead of pine nuts.  It tasted pretty great, the garlic flavour wasn't too overpowering, and it paired very well with fresh lemon and salty cheese.  This pesto is very versatile and so far we have enjoyed it with pasta, white bean soup and cheese on toast.  It could also be stirred into risottos or stews and used in omelettes or mash.

I had managed to grab a few things on the way home, including some spankingly fresh pieces of sustainable Atlantic cod, and so I decided to rustle up a quick crust that when baked would provide a full flavoured, crunchy counterpoint to the mild-mannered flaky fish underneath.  This topping would also work well with other things; as well as any other white fish try salmon, sardines, chicken or pork.

Wild Garlic and Hazelnut Pesto

(Makes a large jar)

Two or three big handfuls of wild garlic leaves, washed and picked through

Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon

1/2 cup grated Parmesan or other hard, strong cheese

1/2 cup hazelnuts

100/200 ml olive oil (you could use rapeseed or sunflower)

1tsp sugar (optional, add if the pesto seems a little bitter)

Salt to taste

-Whizz the garlic leaves in the processor with the nuts, zest and juice of the lemon.

-Add oil slowly until you get the right consistency and everything is nicely blended.

-Stir in cheese and sugar, season to taste.

-Store in clean, sterilised jars, with a layer of oil poured on top of the mixture to seal the surface.

To make the crust I added a large spoonful of pesto per person to a handful of panko breadcrumbs.  Spread the mixture over the fish and drizzle with a little extra oil.  Bake at 190c for 10/12 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through.

Sir Charles Napier, Chinnor, Oxfordshire

Another cracking spring morning, and the Ewing's birthday to boot.  So what nicer way to celebrate than heading out in to the rolling Oxfordshire countryside for a pint and a pub lunch.

Recommended to us by the Ewing's boss The Charles Napier is only about 20 minutes from our door, but had somehow fallen off my radar.  After tapping the address into the sat nav, and merrily setting off, I soon realised why.  This isn't the sort of place you are likely to randomly stumble upon.  After turning up yet another precipitous and winding track the Ewing nervously remarked that, apart from the lack of snow on the Chiltern Hills in the distance, we could be navigating an alpine pass.  We even encountered a few stray sheep to really set the scene.

After the traumas of getting there in one piece we both needed a stiff drink.  Unfortunately we still had to get back again so instead settled for a pint of, very nicely kept, Wadworth 6x.  The dark and cosy front bar, with its big leather sofas and open fireplace, looked the perfect place to hole up on a cold winter's evening.  As the glorious weather was still holding we decided to sit outside in the vine covered patio area, overlooking the sculpture garden and grounds beyond.

On the way through the dining area I spotted a cloth covered platter, with an great, oozing wedge of cheese peeking out, another promising sign that we were in for a treat.  Looking at the menu further confirmed it; not only did it I want to eat everything, but they were also offering great value two course set menu for just £15.50.

Pick of the bread selection was the warm raisin and walnut roll.  Soft and floury, it went down well with a smear of salted butter and another pint of bitter for me. (The birthday girl, and designated driver for the day, was promised plenty of prosecco on our return) 

Double baked smoked haddock and cheddar souffle came looking simple and unprepossessing.  A cracked yellow dome in a puddle of pale sauce, studded with flakes of fish, parsley and chives.  I've had a few twice cooked souffles before, but none nearly as ethereal as this.  It melted in the mouth, like eating a smokey, cheesy cloud of loveliness.

The Ewing's new season asparagus came with a perfectly poached, crispy hen's egg, with a yolk of the most amazing yellow hue.  The accompanying hollandaise was perfectly light and lemony, and in less polite company, I may well have resorted to drinking it straight from the jug.

We both went with the Bouillabaisse for a main. This was a cracking piece of cooking that managed to look as pretty as a picture, but still packed a Provencal flavour punch. Nicely cooked fillets of red mullet and bream sat a top a bed of new potatoes and samphire, cockles and clams nestling in between.  The best bit was throwing rouille covered croutons into a pool of delicious orange and anise scented broth at the bottom of the dish.

Despite the lightness of touch shown in the previous two courses I was almost defeated by the time they bought us the pudding menu.  Struggling gamely on I ordered scoops of brown bread and peanut butter and banana, rum and raisin ice creams.  A welcoming cold and tasty ending; I particularly enjoyed the contrast from the nuggets of boozy fruit and crunch of the peanuts, although the unannounced (blackcurrant?) element was slightly odd. 

The Ewing indulged her first love by choosing the chocolate tart, served with bitter orange ice cream.  'Delicious!' And 'mmm...' were about the only comments I could elicit from her as she chased the remaining pastry crumbs and blobs of almond puree around the plate.

After lunch we decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather by taking a romantic stroll around the gardens. Unfortunately the table next to us had the same idea at the same time, so we spent a few comical laps trying to avoid each other by climbing over styles and cutting through the long grass.  The grounds are quite lovely, complete with a herb garden we saw being plundered by the chef and several benches that looked perfect for a postprandial slump.

As you may already have gathered from the unqualified praise above I found our meal at the Charles Napier to be some of the best judged and skillful cooking I have eaten for a long while.   With food that is fantastic, faultless and a veritable bargain to boot it's well worth braving the wilds of Oxon for.

 

Dishoom Chowpatty Beach, South Bank

Chaijitos and calamari down at Bombay-on-Thames.

Dishoom, the old Bombay style cafe in Covent Garden, has hit the beach with this new pop-up project down on London's South Bank. Based on the shacks lining the eponymous Chowpatty Beach they have created a striking space, with its electric colours and bright canopy, that stands out against the brutalist concrete of Queen Elizabeth Hall.  

After hearing on the tweet vine that they were 'quietly' opening on Monday, four days before their official launch, I pusuaded the Ewing to sack off work early hit the town.  Arriving at about half four we were greeted by a sea of eager waitstaff, resplendeant in their neon t-shirts, who told us that that they had only been open for a couple of hours before our arrival.  Despite their lack of practice, service was fast and friendly and there was a lively buzz about the place.

A cold Kingfisher, Thums Up Cola and a Chaijito.  I wanted to try one of the famed Gola Ices, but they were off the menu, so I settled for a refreshing beer and the famous Indian carbonated beverage Thums Up. This was reminiscent of the cola made in my cousin's Soda Stream back in the 80's, in a good way.  The Ewing's chaijito was quite delicious, chai infused rum and fresh mint leaves, pepped up with the addition of cracked coriander seeds.

We also decided to share a few snacks.  The naan rolls still weren't ready but we were able to order beach snacks and meals.  These are ordered and paid for at the bar and then collected at the kitchen window.   Everything is finished to order, but luckily we seemed to be the only ones eating, so the wait time was short. After collecting our haul we moved to the seating areas outside to enjoy some late afternoon sunshine. 

 As we were tucking in one of the guys involved in the project came out to see if we were enjoying the food, and give us a bit of background on the build.  Based on the concept of 'jugaad' (literally work around) many of the materials used are reclaimed or recycled.  These include the benches outside, made from Scottish railway sleepers,  a canopy made from carrier bags and a wall comprised of rolled newspapers.  The Ewing was particularly interested in the packing crates used in the frontage, I think she might have her eye on reclaiming them herself when they close at the end of the summer...

The food was good.  Calamari was crisp and greaseless with a nice, sweet aftertaste that played off well against the zing of lime and chilli.  By the time I had taken a few snaps of the rest of the food the Ewing had polished most of these off, a testament to its tastiness.

Vada Pau is the very popular street eat, not featured on their original menu, featuring a potato cake served in a toasted bun.  Potentially this could have been a carb overload, but the filling was pillowy light and nicely spiced. As the roll was also soft I found that the textures were quite similar, and personally would have liked a little crunch or chew in there somewhere.

The Pau Bhaji is a traditional Chowpatty Beach snack of mashed vegetables served with buttered bread.  I really enjoyed the creamy, spicy earthiness of the curry, livened up nicely with a sprinkling of fresh coriander and onions.  The dish also packed a good chilli punch, that I welcomed but the Ewing found a little too feisty.